How Often Should You Actually Exfoliate Your Face? We Asked an Esthetician
Key takeaways:
Exfoliation is when you remove dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. Exfoliating may benefit skin health in many ways. It can remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and help maintain elasticity.
There are two types of exfoliation: physical and chemical. Physical exfoliation involves manually scrubbing away dead skin cells to reveal the fresh skin underneath. Chemical exfoliation uses gentle chemicals to dissolve dead skin cells.
You can use either physical or chemical exfoliation, or alternate with both. But too much exfoliation can cause redness, irritation, and sensitivity.
Exfoliation, which involves removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin, is an important part of a skin care routine. Exfoliation helps to unclog pores and improve skin tone and texture. But every person’s exact exfoliation routine will vary, depending on your skin type, any skin conditions you may have, and your goals.
Benefits of exfoliating your face
Your skin is constantly making new cells and shedding old cells. This process, called skin cell turnover, takes place in the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin.
Your body naturally sheds dead skin on its own. But when you exfoliate, you help nudge this process along.
There are several ways that exfoliation may benefit the health of your skin:
Removes dead skin cells: Dead skin cells can collect on the top layer of the skin. This may contribute to acne, dull-looking skin, and more noticeable fine lines and wrinkles.
Unclogs pores: Dead skin cells — along with excess oil, dirt, and debris — can get stuck in your pores. Clogged pores can lead to acne.
Helps skin care products absorb more easily: Buildup on the surface of your skin can create a barrier that reduces your skin’s ability to absorb skin care products.
May stimulate collagen production: Collagen is a protein in your skin that helps keep it elastic and plump. As you age, your body makes less collagen. This lack of collagen contributes to the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
Reduces ingrown hairs: Buildup on the surface of your skin can clog hair follicles. This traps new hair, making ingrown hairs more likely. Exfoliation removes this buildup and gives hair a clear path to grow.
What treatments work on wrinkles? Sun protection is the best way to prevent or improve aging skin caused by sun damage. But other wrinkle treatments can help, too.
Caring for acne-prone skin: Building a skin care routine isn’t one-size-fits-all. Learning the root cause of your acne may help you find the regimen that best suits your skin.
Foods and drinks for glowing skin: It’s not a magic bullet, but the nutrients found in certain foods and drinks may help keep your skin healthier and more youthful looking.
How often should you exfoliate your face?
How frequently you exfoliate your face will depend on your skin type and how your skin reacts to your routine. The ideal exfoliation schedule is one that helps you get the benefits of exfoliation without irritating your skin.
Below are some more specific recommendations by specific skin types.
Skin type | Exfoliation frequency | More info |
Normal | 1-3 times per week | “Normal” skin refers to skin that’s not too dry and not too oily. This type of skin usually doesn’t get too irritated with exfoliation. Still, start with less frequent exfoliation and increase gradually. This will help you find the frequency (and exfoliant) that’s best for your skin. |
Oily | 2-3 times per week | Oily skin tends to produce more sebum, the waxy substance that protects and hydrates the skin’s surface. But excess oil can clog pores and contribute to breakouts. Exfoliating more frequently can remove the excess oil, and may minimize breakouts. |
Acne-prone | 2-3 times per week | Like with oily skin, those with acne-prone skin often produce excess sebum. While there are causes of acne aside from sebum, exfoliation can specifically target this cause. Just make sure you’re gentle with your exfoliation if you have an existing breakout. This reduces the chance of inflammation. |
Dry | 1-2 times per week | Dry skin is more sensitive, and doesn’t produce as much sebum as other skin types. While having too much sebum can lead to breakouts, you do need some sebum to hydrate your skin and provide nutrients to it. Gentle exfoliation can help remove dead skin cells without stripping the natural skin oils that you need. |
Sensitive | once a week (gently) | Sensitive skin can become easily irritated and red. So, people with sensitive skin shouldn’t exfoliate more than once a week. While rosacea and sensitive skin are different, they react to exfoliants in similar ways, so these guidelines apply to rosacea skin as well. |
Mature | 1-2 times per week (gently) | Aging skin has more fine lines and wrinkles. Exfoliation helps reduce the appearance of these lines and wrinkles by promoting cell turnover. But, like sensitive skin, mature skin is often more delicate and can get easily irritated. Avoid exfoliating more than once or twice a week. |
No matter your skin type, it’s best to start your exfoliation routine slowly, then gradually increase frequency depending on how your skin responds to it. If you experience redness, irritation, or other side effects, dial back or try a gentler exfoliant.
Types of exfoliants
There are two main methods of exfoliation: physical and chemical. Both are effective, but each has pros and cons.
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The ideal exfoliant will vary from person to person. Your choice may depend on your skin type, level of sensitivity, and specific skin concerns.
Physical exfoliation
Physical exfoliation, also called mechanical exfoliation, involves using friction to manually scrub away dead skin cells from the top layer of your skin. Physical exfoliants include sugar scrubs, brushes, loofahs, and dermaplaning. Or it may be as simple as using a washcloth.
Physical exfoliation is better for those with normal to oily skin types who can tolerate more aggressive exfoliation. That said, avoid harsh scrubbing and rough materials.
Chemical exfoliation
Chemical exfoliation involves using gentle acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells and promote cell turnover.
Acids
Facial acids break the bonds between the skin and dead skin cells, allowing the dead skin cells to slough off more easily. There are two main categories of facial acids:
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water-soluble and target the skin at the surface level. AHAs can help improve skin tone and texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the skin.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble and penetrate into multiple layers of the skin for a deeper exfoliation. They can help with oil control, improving acne, and calming inflammation, among other things.
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Some commonly used acid exfoliants include:
Glycolic acid (AHA): Glycolic acid is one of the most popular chemical exfoliants. It’s one of the gentler options, making it a great choice for beginners. It’s best used to address hyperpigmentation (dark patches of skin on your face) and sun damage.
Lactic acid (AHA): Lactic acid is similar to glycolic acid, but it’s a bit stronger. For this reason, it’s a better option for those who have used chemical exfoliation before.
Salicylic acid (BHA): Salicylic acid is the go-to exfoliant for acne. If you have oily skin and/or acne-prone skin, it may be a good option to try.
Enzymes
Enzymes work a little differently than acids. While acids break the bonds between your skin and the dead skin cells sitting on it, enzymes are proteins that help dissolve dead skin cells directly. Enzymes do this by breaking down keratin, the main structural protein in skin.
Many enzymes used in skin care come from food. Some of the most common are:
Papain (papaya)
Bromelain (pineapple)
Pumpkin enzyme
What type of exfoliation should you use?
Chemical exfoliation is often preferred by those with sensitive or acne-prone skin. It can be gentler than physical exfoliation, so it’s less likely to cause irritation and inflammation (assuming you’re using it according to the above guidelines).
Chemical exfoliants are particularly good at targeting specific skin concerns like:
Hyperpigmentation
Fine lines
Uneven skin tone
Since different types of chemical exfoliants address different skin concerns, you may choose to alternate between different types in order to get the most benefits. Some people use one product containing AHAs and another with BHAs since these chemicals target different layers of the skin. You may also benefit from carefully alternating chemical and physical exfoliation.
Is it OK to exfoliate your skin daily?
It’s not recommended to exfoliate your skin daily. It’s not necessary, either. More exfoliation doesn’t mean greater benefits. In fact, too much exfoliation can cause more harm than good.
Excess exfoliation can strip your skin of the natural oils it needs. And it can disrupt your skin’s natural barrier — a thin coating of skin cells, fats, acids, and proteins that protects your skin from bacteria and environmental pollution. Excess exfoliation can also lead to irritation and inflammation, including breakouts.
Take care when combining different types and/or methods of exfoliation. Spread out your exfoliation days. It’s best to start slowly and pay attention to how your skin reacts. This will help you find the right combination and balance for you.
Should you exfoliate in the morning or night?
You can exfoliate as part of your skin care routine in the morning or at night, depending on what works best for you. Many people prefer to exfoliate at night, since skin repairs and restores itself during sleep.
Regardless of the time of day, you’ll want to exfoliate after cleansing, then follow it up with a moisturizer. This helps restore hydration to and protect the freshly exposed skin. And if you exfoliate in the morning, it’s extra important to finish with sunscreen.
Exfoliation dos and don’ts
Whether you’re an experienced exfoliator or are adding it to your skin care routine for the first time, here are some best practices to follow.
Do:
Choose the right exfoliant for your skin type.
Test new exfoliants to check for sensitivity before you use them on your face. Apply a small amount to the skin on the inside of your arm or the bend of your elbow, then wait 24 hours to see if a reaction develops. If you don’t react, use the product as directed.
Moisturize and wear sunscreen after exfoliation. In addition to removing dead skin cells, exfoliation also exposes fresh, new skin that’s more susceptible to sun damage.
Listen to your skin and adjust your exfoliation routine as needed.
Don’t:
Use harsh exfoliants or scrub too vigorously
Exfoliate too frequently, especially if you have sensitive or mature skin
Exfoliate sunburned, irritated, or broken skin
The bottom line
For most people, exfoliating one to three times per week is the right amount. Start with less frequent exfoliation and then increase frequency as your skin adjusts. While there are general guidelines according to skin type, every person is different. If you’re not sure which type of exfoliation to use or how to incorporate exfoliants into your skin care routine, talk with an esthetician or dermatologist for guidance.
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References
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