Are Chemical Peels Safe? An Esthetician Weighs in

Chemical peels top the list of popular skin care treatments because they improve your skin’s texture, tone, and overall appearance. But are chemical peels safe?

When done right — meaning by an experienced, licensed professional — chemical peels are both safe and highly effective. Following aftercare instructions closely also minimizes any potential risks. 

Read on to learn more about how chemical peels work, the different types, and whether a chemical peel is the right choice for you.

What is a chemical peel?

A chemical peel is a skin treatment that provides deep exfoliation. It uses a chemical solution — usually an acid — to dissolve dead and/or damaged skin cells in the deeper layers of your skin. This triggers your body to make new skin.

Chemical peels work by: 

• Removing dead or damaged skin, which can appear dull and prevent proper absorption of skincare products like moisturizers. 

• Stimulating the production of collagen, a protein that improves your skin’s elasticity

• Helping evenly distribute melanin, the pigment that gives your skin its color

Chemical peels can be done on skin anywhere on your body. Most often they’re done on your face, with the goals of:

• Reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles

• Evening out skin tone

• Improving skin texture by increasing elasticity

• Helping with acne

Some peels act only on the very top layer of your skin. Other peels can reach deeper layers.

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In all chemical peels, the goal is to cause a controlled injury to your skin to stimulate renewal. 

What to expect during a chemical peel

Here are the basic steps of a chemical peel:

1. A practitioner applies an acid solution to your skin. 

2. The acid sits on your skin for a few minutes to an hour, depending on the peel’s strength and your skin goals.

3. The acid is rinsed off or neutralized with an alkaline solution. This stops the activity of the acid. 

4. Your practitioner may place a cool compress on your skin to soothe it.

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As the treated skin peels and flakes off, your body makes new skin with improved texture, tone, and elasticity. This fresh skin is tender and can take up to a month to fully heal, depending on the type of peel. 

Types of chemical peels

Chemical peels are classified by how deeply they penetrate your skin. There are three main types of professional chemical peels: superficial, medium, and deep. 

1. Superficial peels

Superficial peels are sometimes called light chemical peels. These are the gentlest type of chemical peel. They use a mild acid, such as glycolic acid or diluted trichloroacetic acid (TCA). The exact concentration depends on the type of acid. Usually these peels use 20% to 30% TCA or 30% to 50% glycolic acid. At these concentrations, the acid penetrates only the outermost layer of your skin (the epidermis).

Because superficial peels don’t go very deep, usually there aren’t many side effects. The downtime is also usually minimal. In fact, these chemical peels are nicknamed "lunchtime peels" since you could theoretically get one during your lunch break. But if you have sensitive skin, healing can take up to 7 days.

Superficial peels are most commonly used to treat:

• Acne

• Light acne scarring

• Melasma, a skin condition that causes brown or gray-brown patches on your skin

• Mild sun damage, such as uneven pigmentation or brown spots

• Mild skin discoloration and hyperpigmentation (dark patches on your skin)

2. Medium peels

Medium-depth peels penetrate past your epidermis and work on the top layer of your dermis, 

the middle layer of your skin. These peels typically use up to 35% TCA or 70% glycolic acid. Healing can take 1 to 2 weeks.

Medium peels are often used to improve:

• Age spots

• Fine lines and wrinkles

• Superficial scars

• Moderate skin discoloration

• Rough, scaly skin

• Pigment disorders

3. Deep peels

Deep peels penetrate through the epidermis and into deeper layers of the dermis. This includes the reticular dermis, a thick layer in the middle of your skin. Deep peels usually contain TCA in concentrations of 50% or more.

Deep peels come with the most dramatic skin improvements. But they also require the most downtime. Healing often takes 2 to 3 weeks.

Deep peels are often used to treat:

• Severe sun damage

• Severe skin discoloration

• Deep wrinkles

• Deep scars

Some people take a sedative along with a local anesthetic before getting a deep peel.

At-home peels

In addition to professional peels, ultra-light peels are widely available from skin care brands. These peels use low-potency acids, such as: 

• Glycolic 

• Salicylic

• Retinoic

At-home peels use these milder acids in very low concentrations — typically no more than about 10%. (This is the highest concentration recommended for at-home use.)

These peels don’t penetrate as deeply as professional chemical peels. But they’re a good option for light exfoliation and can be a useful addition to your skin care routine. 

While medium and deep peels can sometimes be found in stores or online, the FDA advises against using them at home. Without proper training, these peels increase the risk of injury and side effects, including permanent scarring.

Is chemical peeling good for your skin?

Chemical peels can be good — or even great — for your skin if you have a skin issue that can benefit from them. 

Serious adverse effects are unlikely when a chemical peel is done by an experienced, licensed professional. But the procedure does come with some potential risks. The depth of the peel also affects your level of risk. Light peels are the least likely to cause side effects, while deep peels come with more risk.

Chemical peel risks 

The most common risks of a chemical peel are:

• Persistent redness, swelling, and/or irritation

• Pigmentation changes

• Scarring

• Infection

You can minimize risks by closely following all care instructions for before and after. 

Who is not a good candidate for a chemical peel?

Chemical peels aren’t for everyone. You’re not a good candidate if you:

• Have thick, raised scars 

• Tend to get extra pigmentation around scars (this is more common in people with darker skin tones)

• Have a skin condition that makes your skin extra sensitive, such as psoriasis or rosacea

• Are taking a medication that increases skin sensitivity, such as certain antidepressants

• Have been on acne medication in the past six months, such as Accutane or Claravis. These medications contain an active ingredient called isotretinoin, which makes you more likely to scar after a peel. 

There’s a higher risk of adverse effects and complications for people with darker skin tones. This is because darker skin contains more melanin, which makes it more sensitive to inflammation and hyperpigmentation.

Side effects of chemical peels

After a chemical peel, it’s common to experience redness and irritation — similar to the look and feel of a sunburn. But this is a normal reaction, not a sign that something went wrong. 

Some other common (and expected) side effects of chemical peels are:

• Peeling

• Swelling

• Temporary discoloration

• Slight burning

• Sun sensitivity

Side effects usually go away in 1 to 3 weeks. But the timeline depends on the type of peel and your skin sensitivity. 

After a deep peel, it’s a good idea to plan for 1 to 2 weeks of downtime. During this time, your injured skin will peel and flake off. Some people may not feel comfortable going out in public during this period. Most people can return to normal activities after about two weeks. But facial redness may persist for a month or longer. You can even out skin tone with makeup after the initial two-week healing period.

How to care for your skin after a chemical peel

Taking care of your skin after a chemical peel is crucial. The more carefully you follow postpeel care, the quicker side effects will usually subside. Your practitioner will provide specific instructions, which may include:

• Don’t pick at your skin. Your skin will start peeling and flaking a day or two after your chemical peel. Let it slough off naturally — don’t pick or peel your skin. 

• Avoid the sun. Fresh skin is especially sensitive to sunburn. Stay out of the sun for at least 48 hours after the peel. Once you do go outdoors, be sure to wear sunscreen.

• Avoid makeup for 1 to 2 weeks while your skin heals. Makeup can clog pores, irritate your skin, and slow healing. Give your skin time to breathe.

• Apply healing ointments. Your dermatologist may recommend applying a soothing balm or ointment to your skin as it heals. Make sure to use it as recommended.

• After your skin heals, continue to apply sunscreen daily. This will help protect your new skin.

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Written by:

Lindsay Boyers, CHNC

Lindsay Boyers, CHNC, is a functional nutritionist, licensed esthetician, writer, and editor with over a decade of experience in evidence-based health, wellness, and skincare writing.

Edited by:

Meredith Hoffa

Meredith Hoffa is a senior health editor at GoodRx, where she leads journalists and clinicians covering various well-being topics, particularly in diet and nutrition.

Reviewed by:

Maria Robinson, MD, MBA

Maria Robinson, MD, MBA, is a board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist who has practiced dermatology and dermatopathology for over 10 years across private practice, academic, and telehealth settings. She is a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and the American Society of Dermatopathology.

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