Key takeaways:
Retinol is used to treat acne and wrinkles. It’s found in over-the-counter and prescription skin care products.
Retinol burns are a common side effect. They cause dry, irritated, and peeling skin. Retinol overuse can also lead to retinol burns.
Cool compresses and moisturizers can soothe a retinol burn, but there’s no quick fix.
Retinol burns become less common as you continue to use retinol and your skin gets used to the medication.
Retinols are a class of topical medications that are made from vitamin A. You can find retinols in over-the-counter (OTC) skin care products that treat acne and wrinkles. Higher-strength retinols are also available by prescription.
Retinol is an effective and powerful skin care tool. But it can also cause side effects, like retinol burns. Retinol burns can be uncomfortable, but they don’t mean you have to stop using your favorite retinol products. Here’s what you should know about retinol burns and how you can manage them.
Retinol burns are a common, but short-term, side effect of topical retinoids. They’re not really burns but rather skin irritation that’s triggered by retinol. People develop retinol burns within the first few weeks after they start using retinol products.
Retinol burns aren’t a sign of an allergic reaction or retinol intolerance. They develop because of how retinol works. Retinol changes the way skin cells behave. Retinol boosts healthy skin cell growth. This decreases how much oil your skin makes and prompts your skin to get rid of old skin cells faster. These changes help clear up acne, prevent wrinkles, and lower inflammation. But they can also cause irritating skin changes, like:
Dryness
Redness
Flaking
Itching
Burning
“Retinol burns are pretty common, especially in people using retinol or retinoids for the first time,” said Maria Robinson, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist. “They're also more likely to happen if you start too fast, use too much, or use a strong concentration.”
Retinol burns can look different from person to person. Some people experience more mild symptoms, like:
Pink skin
Dry skin
Flaky skin
Some people experience more severe redness and peeling while using retinol. Others develop such mild skin changes that they never even notice them.
If you have sensitive skin, you’re more likely to develop a retinol burn. You’re also more likely to develop retinol burns on sensitive areas, like your eyelids or the skin around your eyes and mouth. But you can develop symptoms anywhere you’ve been applying retinol.
Retinol burns heal on their own over 1 to 2 weeks, typically. But Dr. Robinson cautioned, “For people with sensitive skin or underlying conditions, like eczema, it may take a little longer.”
If you develop a retinol burn, stop using retinol products until your skin heals. Once your symptoms go away and your skin goes back to normal, you can restart your retinol products. To avoid future retinol burns, follow these tips from Dr. Robinson: “Start with a lower concentration and use it two to three times a week for a couple weeks. Then, after your skin is used to it, you can increase it to every night for best results.”
You don’t need to use much. “When it comes to retinol, less is definitely more,” she noted. “You only need a tiny amount — like the size of a green pea — to treat your whole face. Avoid the sensitive areas of your face, like around your eyes and mouth.”
Another piece of good news: You’re less likely to experience retinol burns as you continue to use retinol products. As your skin starts to get used to the changes from retinol, it’s less likely to get irritated.
There’s no quick fix or cure for a retinol burn. You’ll have to give your skin time to heal. But there are things you can do to soothe your skin while you wait. And you can minimize the risk of developing future retinol burns once you start using it again. Try these five tips.
A cool compress can help soothe pain, burning, and itching. Run a clean cloth under cold water to create a compress. You can also use reusable cool packs. Make sure to wrap ice or frozen products in a towel first. Applying frozen products directly to your skin will cause more skin damage.
Apply the cool compress for about 5 minutes to any areas of irritation. You can use a cool compress several times throughout the day.
Moisturize liberally while you wait for your skin to heal. Moisturizers create a barrier to help trap moisture. This will help decrease flakiness and peeling. Choose a moisturizer that’s dye- and fragrance-free. Moisturizers marked for sensitive skin are great options because they’re less likely to contain products that can further irritate your skin.
If you’re not prone to acne, you can try petroleum jelly (such as Vaseline or Aquaphor) as a barrier cream. You can also try aloe vera cream. Just make sure the product contains pure aloe vera and doesn’t contain dyes or fragrances.
Keep moisturizing even after your retinol burn heals. This can help you avoid future burns. “For even more skin protection,” Dr. Robinson noted, “you can buffer your skin with a moisturizer first, followed by a thin layer of retinol, and then another layer of moisturizer.”
Your skin is more sensitive and prone to sunburn when you have a retinol burn. Make sure to wear SPF 30 sunscreen while you’re waiting for your retinol burn to heal, even if you don’t plan to be outdoors very much. It’s also a good idea to wear sunscreen every day when using a retinol product. This will protect your skin from UV light damage.
Talk with your primary care provider or dermatologist if you have more severe symptoms. They might recommend a prescription steroid cream to help ease your skin inflammation. They may also have additional suggestions on how to adjust your skin care routine so you don’t get retinol burns in the future. For example, they might suggest avoiding certain skin medications, like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid while using retinol. And they can offer suggestions for the best products to use instead.
Retinol is a common ingredient found in both prescription and OTC medications to treat common skin conditions, such as acne and wrinkles. Retinol can cause a side effect called a retinol burn. Retinol burns can cause skin redness, irritation, and flaking. But it’s not an allergy. You should stop using retinol if you develop a retinol burn. Once your skin heals, you can start using retinol again. But you should restart slowly and with a lower concentration. You’re less likely to develop retinol burns as your skin gets used to the medication. Moisturizers and sunscreens can also lower your chances of future retinol burns.
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