Key takeaways:
Lip balms can make your lips more chapped if they contain ingredients that irritate your lips.
ChapStick and other lip balms work by hydrating lips and protecting them from moisture loss.
Avoid lip balms with added fragrance, salicylic acid, and menthol, which can make chapped lips worse.
People often reach for ChapStick to calm cracked, peeling lips. But if you’re constantly applying lip balm, you may wonder if it’s really working to get rid of chapped lips.
ChapStick is a specific brand, and it has become synonymous with lip balm. But there are other lip balm options out there too. And not all lip balms are created equal. The ingredients in lip balm can heal chapped lips. But some ingredients can make the problem worse.
Let’s review the evidence behind how lip balm works for chapped lips, as well as what ingredients in lip balms can make chapped lips worse.
Yes, using a lip balm with irritating ingredients can make chapped lips worse. This can cause a vicious cycle: You use the offending lip balm for short-term relief, but it ends up causing more irritation and discomfort. So you keep using the lip balm and not seeing any improvement.
Some people who experience this phenomenon might think their lips are dependent on lip balm. Social media has dubbed this “ChapStick addiction.” But your lips can’t be addicted to or dependent on lip balm. Your lips are simply irritated by the ingredients in the lip balm. And they’ll heal if you give them a break from these irritating items.
How can you tell if you’re using a type of lip balm that’s harming your lips? Let’s look at ingredients to avoid when selecting a lip balm.
Many lip balms attract consumers with appealing scents and flavors. But the ingredients that create these aromas can worsen your chapped lips. Certain perfumes and flavorings in lip balm can trigger an allergic or irritant contact dermatitis. These are skin reactions that result in dry, cracked, and painful lips.
Common ingredients in flavored lip balms that can worsen chapped lips include:
Geraniol (rose water)
Cinnamaldehyde (cinnamon)
Do you need ChapStick? Your lip balm may be FSA eligible if it meets these requirements.
Constantly battling dry lips? Our experts review the most common causes of chapped lips and how to treat them.
Can dry, cracked lips be a sign of a medical condition? Yes, here’s how to tell if your chapped lips are due to angular cheilitis.
Menthol and camphor are often added to lip balms. They act as mild numbing agents and may produce a tingling sensation on the lips when applied. But that tingle or stinging sensation is a sign that the lips are being irritated. You should avoid products that create that feeling on the lips.
Salicylic acid is often found in over-the-counter (OTC) skin care products for acne, psoriasis, and dandruff. Salicylic acid acts as an exfoliant to break down the outer layer of skin.
In general, it’s not something that should be applied to the lips. It can dry out the outer skin layers of lips and remove the protective barrier that helps keep lips moist. So it’s best to avoid lip balms containing salicylic acid.
Some lip balm ingredients sound like they would be great at protecting the lips. But they can actually trigger allergic reactions. Two ingredients found in a lot of lip products are:
But many people are allergic to these ingredients. Instead of soothing chapped lips, they can make lips itchier and drier.
Yes. It’s safe to use ChapStick or lip balm every day. Your lips will not become dependent on lip balm. But pick a lip balm with ingredients that moisturize lips, lock in moisture, and won’t cause further irritation.
If your dry lips aren’t getting better within 2 or 3 days of starting a lip balm, stop using it. Also, stop using a lip balm if at any point your symptoms get worse.
Signs that your lip balm may be causing more harm than good include:
A burning or tingling sensation
Redness and swelling
Cracks or fissures
Itching
Dryness and peeling
You may also notice skin changes where your lips meet your skin. This is called the vermillion border. Stop using your lip balm if you notice redness, peeling, or cracked skin on or near your vermillion border.
An effective lip balm will hydrate your lips and protect them from further water loss.
Look for lip balms that contain these items:
Occlusive: An occlusive prevents water loss from the lip. Common occlusives include petroleum jelly and mineral oil. Vaseline lip therapy contains petroleum jelly.
Humectant: These are ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid that attract moisture into the lip. Cerave healing ointment is made with hyaluronic acid, as well as petroleum jelly. Aquaphor lip repair is another popular option that has both humectant and occlusive ingredients. But some items in this product line contain beeswax, which can be an allergen for some people.
SPF protection: Lip balms with zinc oxide and titanium oxide provide sun protection. EltaMD UV lip balm broad spectrum SPF 36 is made with zinc oxide and contains glycerin, an occlusive.
Chapped lips can be frustrating, but they’re usually easy to fix with the right treatment. Choosing the right lip balm is the first and most crucial step. Using a lip balm with irritating ingredients can make chapped lips worse. Avoid products that contain salicylic acid, menthol, or added fragrance. Instead, pick a lip balm with a humectant, occlusive, and no irritants to help soothe chapped lips.
American Academy of Dermatology Association. (n.d.). 7 dermatologists’ tips for healing dry, chapped lips.
American Chemical Society. (2016). Geraniol.
Bhutta, B. S., et al. (2023). Cheilitis. StatPearls.
James, J. M. (2023). Did I develop an allergy to the ingredients in my lip balm? Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America.
Johnson, H., et al. (2023). Lanolin: The 2023 American Contact Dermatitis Society allergen of the year. Cutis.
Nyman, G. S. A., et al. (2019). Contact allergy to beeswax and propolis among patients with cheilitis or facial dermatitis. Contact Dermatitis.
Tran, A., et al. (2010). Acute allergic contact dermatitis of the lips from peppermint oil in a lip balm. Dermatitis.
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. (1998). Cinnamaldehyde fact sheet.