Can Vitamin C Give You Brighter, Younger-Looking Skin?
Key takeaways:
Topical vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant with anti-aging benefits.
Benefits of vitamin C include brighter skin, less wrinkling, and more even pigmentation.
Vitamin C can break down easily, so you’ll need to use it properly to get the most benefit.
Building a skincare regimen can be challenging. There are so many products out there claiming to be the cure for wrinkles, dullness, and dryness. One such product is vitamin C. But it turns out this one might hold some clout. Let’s dive into the skincare ingredient and whether or not it should hold a place in your routine.
What does vitamin C do for your skin?
As a potent antioxidant, topical vitamin C has some pretty amazing anti-aging benefits. It helps limit:
Sun damage
Fine lines
Wrinkles
Hyperpigmentation
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How does vitamin C work?
Sun exposure, pollution, smoking, and blue light from screens cause a buildup of toxins in the skin. These toxins (also known as free radicals) break down collagen; damage elastic fibers; and cause discoloration, wrinkles, sagging, and broken blood vessels. Your body defends itself from free radicals by neutralizing them with internal antioxidants. But that’s not always enough.
Enter vitamin C. When you apply vitamin C to your skin, it helps you fight off damaging free radicals. This means brighter skin, fewer wrinkles, and a more even skin tone.
Who should use vitamin C?
If you’re interested in preventing obvious signs of skin aging, vitamin C is for you. It’s also beneficial for people with sun damage, hyperpigmentation, and melasma. Vitamin C also adds a layer of protection if you work or spend a lot of time outdoors.
You should check with your dermatologist before using vitamin C if you have sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, or other facial inflammation.
How do you incorporate vitamin C into your regimen?
For best results, your vitamin C product should have a concentration between 10% and 20%. Higher than that won’t work better and might cause irritation. If you have sensitive skin, start low, and build up as your skin gets used to it.
Vitamin C can be finicky. If you mix it with the wrong products, it won’t work as well and can irritate your skin. Here are some ingredients to avoid using at the same time as your vitamin C:
Benzoyl peroxide
Alpha hydroxy acids
Salicylic acid
Retinol
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Since vitamin C protects your skin from environmental damage, it’s best to use it first thing in the morning. Here’s a good regimen to follow:
Wash with a gentle cleanser.
Pat your skin dry.
Apply a thin film of your vitamin C product.
Allow it to dry for at least 1 to 2 minutes.
Apply a moisturizer.
Apply sunscreen.
Proper use of sunscreen is key to getting the most out of your vitamin C product. You should use a broad-spectrum sunscreen (which protects against both UVA and UVB rays) that’s SPF 30 or higher. Apply sunscreen 20 minutes before you go outside. Reapply every 2 hours when outside and immediately after sweating or swimming.
You can complete your anti-aging regimen by adding a retinol or alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) in the evening. If your skin runs dry, you can apply hyaluronic acid before your retinol or AHA and then follow with moisturizer.
How to shop for vitamin C
Vitamin C is sensitive to air and light. When exposed, it gets oxidized and won’t work as well. Therefore, it’s best to look for a vitamin C serum that’s in an air tight, opaque container. The most stable forms are:
Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
It’s a bonus if your product has other antioxidants (like vitamin E or ferulic acid) along with vitamin C. Avoid formulations that contain alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, or retinol mixed in with the vitamin C. These might not work as well and can be more irritating.
The bottom line
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect your skin from environmental damage. For best results, you’ll need to use it properly and consistently as part of a complete skincare regimen.
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References
Ahmad, I., et al. (2011). Photostability and interaction of ascorbic acid in cream formulations. AAPS PharmSciTech.
Al-Niaimi, F., et al. (2017). Topical vitamin C and the skin: Mechanisms of action and clinical applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology.
American Academy of Dermatology Association. (n.d.). How to apply sunscreen.
Chen, L., et al. (2012). The role of antioxidants in photoprotection: A critical review. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Farris, P. K. (2005). Topical vitamin C: A useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions. Dermatologic Surgery.
Pinnell, S. R., et al. (2001). Topical L-ascorbic acid: Percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatologic Surgery.
Zahr, A., et al. (2019). Efficacy and tolerability of a novel antioxidant formulation containing 30 (w/w) % of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, a lipid-soluble form of vitamin C. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
