When to Use Retinol and How to Add It to Your Skin Care Routine — According to Dermatologists

Retinol is vitamin A, and it’s an active ingredient in many skin care products. Retinol benefits the skin in many ways — from preventing acne breakouts and enhancing skin turnover to reducing the signs of skin aging. 

If you’re new to a skin care routine, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by all of the options, ingredients, formulations, and price tags. But know this: According to the science, there are only five skin care ingredients that matter for skin health: retinol, sunscreen, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and alpha hydroxy acids.  

So if you’re considering adding retinol to your skin care routine, you’re in the right place. Here’s our beginner’s guide to retinol, why everyone should consider it, and how and when to use it. 

What is retinol?

Retinol is vitamin A that occurs naturally in the body and in foods. It’s also an added ingredient in many over-the-counter (OTC) skin care products. To have an effect, retinol has to be converted to its active form — retinoic acid. This happens in the body, after you apply retinol to the skin.

How is retinol different from retinoic acid?

Pure retinoic acid, like Retin-A, is about 20 times stronger than retinol. It’s only available by prescription. Retinoic acid comes as a cream, like tretinoin (Retin-A), or as a pill, like isotretinoin (Accutane). 

How is retinol different from retinoids?

Retinoid is an umbrella term for many chemical compounds related to vitamin A (retinol). Retinoids can be OTC or prescription, and they come as creams or pills. 

Examples of prescription retinoids are:

• Adapalene (Differin)

• Tazarotene (Avage, Tazorac)

• Trifarotene (Aklief)

Healthcare professionals prescribe retinoids for conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, and psoriasis. There’s also a lower-strength, OTC version of adapalene called Differin Gel.

EXPERT PICKS: WHAT TO READ NEXT

• Thinking about using retinol? Explore the key ways in which retinol benefits your skin and complexion. 

• Retinol vs. Retin-A for acne: Find out how these two popular creams work, and which one is better at fighting pimples.  

• Anti-aging products at any age: Learn about essential tips for graceful aging, including which products to use through your 40s and beyond. 

In general, retinol is not as strong as Retin-A or other prescription retinoids. But when it comes to “antiaging” benefits, retinol may work just as well and cause less dryness, redness, and flaking. Retinol comes in different forms in OTC products. Here are some ingredients to look for when choosing a retinol:

• Retinaldehyde (also called “retinal”)

• Retinyl esters

• Retinyl propionate

How does retinol work?

Retinol affects the skin in a few different ways, which is why it can treat so many conditions. Retinol works by: 

• Exfoliating the skin, which unclogs pores and replaces old skin cells with new ones 

• Boosting collagen production, which improves fine lines and wrinkles 

• Reducing skin pigmentation (called melanin), which improves dark spots and evens out skin tone 

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Who should use retinol?

If you’re dealing with acne or worried about premature aging, adding a retinol to your skin care routine may be a great option for you. But, retinol can help with much more. Here are the main reasons retinol is good for your skin. 

Retinol for acne

Retinol and prescription retinoids are very effective treatments for acne. If you have mild acne — like a few whiteheads, blackheads, or pimples — an OTC retinol may be a good option for you. For more severe acne, you may need a prescription-strength retinoid. Retinol is often used along with other acne medications, like a face wash that has benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. 

Retinol for signs of aging

No matter your age, retinol can reverse many of the signs of aging. Retinol reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin tone and texture, and helps make skin firmer and more supple. 

Retinol for pores

When pores get clogged with dead skin cells and oil, they become larger and more noticeable.  OTC retinol can help unclog pores, making them appear smaller and smoothing out your skin. For more serious clogged pores (like blackheads), a stronger retinoid is more effective.   

Retinol for dark spots 

Whether you have dark spots caused by sun damage or another form of hyperpigmentation, retinol can help. Retinol slows the production of melanin, the main pigment in the skin. Over time, this leads to less noticeable dark spots and more balanced skin tone. 

Retinol for psoriasis

Psoriasis is a chronic autoimmune skin condition that causes your skin to grow too fast. This leads to thick, rough skin patches that can be itchy and painful. Prescription strength retinoids treat psoriasis by slowing down skin growth and thinning out those skin patches. 

Retinol for stretch marks 

Stretch marks are those red, purple, or brown lines that can form on places like your belly and thighs. They happen after times of rapid growth or weight gain (like pregnancy), and they can be hard to get rid of. Some small studies have shown that using tretinoin cream (a prescription retinoid) can help make stretch marks smaller and less noticeable. 

What age should you start using retinol?

There are no set rules on how old you should be to use retinol. For its skin aging benefits, you can start to use it in your 20s as a preventive step. If you’re using it for mild acne, you can use it even younger.  

Keep in mind that while OTC retinol can help mild acne, many people with breakouts will need a prescription-strength retinoid cream. These are FDA approved for ages 12 and up, but dermatologists sometimes use them off-label in children under 12 years old.

What order should you apply retinol in your skin care routine?

Retinoids should only be used at night because light and air deactivate some types. 

In general, it’s best to apply retinol right after cleansing your face and after your skin has completely dried. After the retinol, apply a moisturizer. If your skin is getting irritated by the retinol, you can also do a retinol “sandwich” — apply retinol in between two layers of moisturizer. 

If you’re also using a serum or other cream, apply these after the retinol and before the moisturizer. 

Can you use retinol every night?

Retinol and other retinoids work best if you use them daily. But when you first start out, you should begin using retinol every 1 or 2 days. This helps your skin get used to it, and avoid irritation. After a few weeks, slowly work your way up to using it every night. 

How to use retinol

Starting a new routine can feel overwhelming. But we have you covered with eight tips to keep in mind as you incorporate retinol into your skin care routine.

1. Always start slowly 

It can take time for your skin to get used to a retinoid. Start by applying it once or twice a week, and always at night. As your skin adjusts, you can work your way up to using it nightly. If your skin gets red, dry, or flaky, you may be moving too fast. 

Try using it less often until these side effects resolve, and then increase slowly. Once you’re comfortable with nightly use, you can consider increasing the strength.

2. Use only a pea-sized amount

When it comes to retinoids, a little bit goes a long way. In general, a pea-sized amount is enough for your whole face. Dab it on your forehead, nose, cheeks, and then your chin. Gently rub it in to distribute the product evenly. 

3. If you’re prone to acne, beware of ‘purging’

Around 20% of people who use retinoids get a flare during the first few weeks after starting it. But don’t give up. It can take up to 12 weeks to see full results. 

4. Stick to mild, gentle skin care products

Retinoids can be irritating, especially at first. It’s best to avoid using them with other sources of irritation, like: 

• Benzoyl peroxide

• Salicylic acid

• Alpha hydroxy acids

• Scrubs

• Exfoliators 

5. Moisturize your skin

Retinoids can cause dryness and irritation (retinoid dermatitis). Using a moisturizer can help. If your skin is dry or sensitive, you can apply your retinoid on top of a moisturizer.

6. Protect your skin from ultraviolet (UV) rays 

Retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to burning, even if you only apply it at night. Avoid tanning beds. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily. It should be SPF 30 or higher and cover UVA and UVB rays. Reapply frequently when outside. 

7. Stop your retinoid before any facial procedure

Retinoids increase your skin’s sensitivity. It’s best to stop using them for 5 to 7 days before waxes, peels, lasers, and other facial procedures. 

8. Don’t use a retinoid if you’re pregnant or could be pregnant

Most experts advise against using a retinoid during pregnancy or while you’re breastfeeding. For acne, alternatives include OTC alpha hydroxy acids (look for ingredients like glycolic or lactic acid) or prescription-strength azelaic acid (Azelex). 

What strength retinol should I use?

The strength of retinol and retinoids varies across different OTC and prescription products. Here’s how they stack up from weakest to strongest. 

• OTC retinol products range from 0.01% to 1%.

• OTC adapalene 0.1% (a retinoid available without a prescription)

• Prescription-strength retinoids range from tretinoin (0.01%) to tazarotene (0.1%).

In general, it’s best to start with a low-strength OTC retinol, like 0.1% or 0.2%, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin, or you’ve never used retinoids before. Once your skin is used to that nightly, you can slowly increase the strength as needed. 

Retinol serum vs. cream: How to choose

When starting a retinol, it’s important to choose a low-strength version in a formulation that works for your skin type. Retinol and retinoids come in many different formulations, like retinol creams, serums, and lotions. Serums tend to be thinner and absorb quickly. But unlike creams and lotions, serums don’t provide any moisturization. 

Here are the best retinol formulations for different skin types. 

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Written by:

Maryann Mikhail, MD

Maryann Mikhail, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and medical writer based in South Florida. She is the founder of Waverly DermSpa in Fort Lauderdale and holds a voluntary faculty position at the Dr. Phillip Frost Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery at the University of Miami MIller School of Medicine.

Edited by:

Sophie Vergnaud, MD

Sophie Vergnaud, MD, is the Senior Medical Director for GoodRx Health. An experienced and dedicated pulmonologist and hospitalist, she spent a decade practicing and teaching clinical medicine at academic hospitals throughout London before transitioning to a career in health education and health technology.

Reviewed by:

Maria Robinson, MD, MBA

Maria Robinson, MD, MBA, is a board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist who has practiced dermatology and dermatopathology for over 10 years across private practice, academic, and telehealth settings. She is a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology and the American Society of Dermatopathology.

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