What to Know About Bakuchiol: The Plant-Based Alternative to Retinol
Key takeaways:
Bakuchiol is a naturally occurring compound with antioxidant properties. It comes from the seeds of a plant called psoralea corylifolia.
Anyone with sensitive skin who doesn’t respond well to retinol may want to give bakuchiol a try. It has the same benefits but doesn't make you as sensitive to sunlight.
It may take around 3 months before you start seeing bakuchiol’s effects.
Table of contents
You may be familiar with retinol, a lab-made form of vitamin A that is widely used in skin care regimens. But in recent years, there has been interest in a more natural, plant-based alternative called bakuchiol.
Discovered in 1966, bakuchiol is a compound found in the seeds of the psoralea corylifolia plant. It is high in antioxidants, and the plant it comes from is often used in China and India for its medicinal properties.
Pharmaceutical and cosmetic companies have taken an interest in bakuchiol, and the market for it is projected to cross $7 million by 2028.
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But does the science support bakuchiol as a natural alternative to retinol? Here’s what to know if you're thinking of adding bakuchiol to your skin care routine.
What is bakuchiol used for?
Historically, the bakuchiol-containing plant was used in India as a medicine for conditions like:
Psoriasis
Vitiligo
Ulcers
Asthma
Today, bakuchiol is commonly included as an ingredient in skin care products, like serums, moisturizers, and even face masks to help improve skin health.
Bakuchiol benefits
A few small clinical studies have shown that bakuchiol has promise in treating photodamage and acne. However, larger, high-quality studies are needed to understand the full extent of bakuchiol’s benefits.
That said, lab research has found the plant compound to have anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties, which might offer the following health benefits:
Stimulating collagen production
Reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Smoothing out pigmentation
Improving skin firmness and elasticity
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In addition to skin-related benefits, a small lab study done in China observed cancer-fighting potential in bakuchiol.
How does bakuchiol work?
Scientists are still learning about how bakuchiol might support skin health. Lab studies have found that, like retinol, bakuchiol can boost or curb the effects of certain genes involved in making new skin cells, increasing collagen production, and promoting wound healing.
How long does it take for bakuchiol to work?
Based on the available research, it may take a couple of months for you to notice the effects of bakuchiol. Most studies seem to indicate that noticeable skin benefits are seen at around 3 months.
Another small study found an increase in skin firmness and brightness after 2 months, but it looked at bakuchiol in combination with Tahitian vanilla extract.
What are the major differences between bakuchiol and retinol?
In spite of the similar benefits they may provide, bakuchiol and retinol have their share of differences:
Bakuchiol and retinol are completely different substances with different molecular structures.
Retinol is a form of vitamin A found in many plants and animals. Bakuchiol is an antioxidant extracted specifically from psoralea corylifolia.
The reported side effects of bakuchiol are milder than those of retinol. More on this later.
Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?
More research is needed to understand how bakuchiol and retinol stack up against each other. Multiple studies suggest bakuchiol has the same effects as retinol but with much less irritation.
One small study done by universities across the U.S. found that both ingredients worked equally well to reduce wrinkles and skin discoloration.
What are the side effects and risks of bakuchiol?
Most studies have found bakuchiol to be well tolerated. Side effects may include redness after about a month of use according to small studies. Still, bakuchiol generally appears to be more gentle than retinol — especially since unlike retinol, there are no reports of irritation when users are exposed to sunlight.
As always, though, be aware of possible allergic reactions from bakuchiol. The FDA doesn't need to approve cosmetics before they enter the market. So read the labels carefully to ensure the listed ingredients are safe for you.
Can you take bakuchiol during pregnancy?
There is no research around whether bakuchiol is safe for people who are pregnant or breastfeeding. It’s best to talk with a dermatologist if you are considering taking bakuchiol and are pregnant or trying to get pregnant.
Can you take bakuchiol and retinol together?
Some experts say yes. You can use the two together for a double boost of anti-aging power. But you’re better off checking with a dermatologist, who can help you determine which products are best suited for your skin.
Proponents of taking both bakuchiol and retinol suggest using bakuchiol during the day and retinol at night to minimize sensitivity.
Is it safe to take bakuchiol every day?
From the available research, bakuchiol appears to be safe for daily use. Most studies have looked at applying bakuchiol at least once a day. But there’s not much research on long-term effects of bakuchiol.
Your best bet is to follow the instructions on the product or use the products as directed by a dermatologist. They may suggest using a small amount of bakuchiol first or using the product a couple of times a week to see how your skin responds.
The bottom line
Whether you're starting a new skincare routine or trying to switch up your current one, bakuchiol is an emerging and safe plant-based alternative to retinol.
It won't cause irritation when you’re exposed to sunlight, and it is generally safe to use daily without adverse side effects. Talk with a dermatologist if you have any questions.
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References
Bacqueville, D., et al. (2020). Efficacy of dermocosmetic serum combining bakuchiol and vanilla tahitensis extract to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology.
Bluemke, A., et al. (2022). Multidirectional activity of bakuchiol against cellular mechanisms of facial ageing ‐ experimental evidence for a holistic treatment approach. International Journal of Cosmetic Science.
Chaudhuri, R. K., et al. (2014). Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science.
Chen, Z., et al. (2010). Anti-tumor effects of bakuchiol, an analogue of resveratrol, on human lung adenocarcinoma A549 cell line. European Journal of Pharmacology.
Dhaliwal, S., et al. (2018). Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology.
Greenzaid, J. D., et al. (2022). The use of bakuchiol in dermatology: A review of in vitro and in vivo evidence. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.
Khushboo, P. S., et al. (2010). Psoralea corylifolia linn. – ‘kushtanashini.’ Pharmacognosy Review.
Krishna, A. T. P., et al. (2022). Bakuchiol – a natural meroterpenoid: Structure, isolation, synthesis and functionalization approaches. RSC Advances.
Presern, A., et al. (2020). Bakuchiol: A promising ingredient to help slow down time. Cosmethically Active.
Puyana, C., et al. (2022). Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature. Journal of Cosmetics in Dermatology.
Shaw, S. (2023). What is bakuchiol? Experts explain the skin care benefits of the retinol alternative. CNN Underscored.
U.S. Food and Drug Administration. (2022). Wrinkle treatments and other anti-aging products.
Vantage Market Research. (2022). Bakuchiol market to reach valuation of USD 7.3 million by 2028 – surge in demand from cosmetics and pharmaceutical companies in developing regions drives the market.
